What attractions await tourists visiting Kashubia? What makes this region delight not only with its landscapes, but also with its culture? In the eleventh episode of AmberPodcast, together with Patrycja Weiher-Maliszewska – an enthusiast of Kashubian heritage – we discover the secrets of this extraordinary corner of Polish. We will talk about picturesque lakes, traditional crafts and the unique Kashubian language, as well as suggest what places are worth visiting to feel the real atmosphere of the region. Turn on the AmberPodcast and immerse yourself in the story of Kashubia – the heart of Pomeranian culture!
Anna Kordecka: Welcome to the new AmberPodcast series devoted to the most interesting tourist attractions of the Pomeranian Voivodeship. The partner of this year’s podcast series is the Pomeranian Regional Tourism Organization. Today, in the first episode of this series, we will move to Kashubia – a region full of beautiful lakes, picturesque forests, unique culture and deep-rooted traditions. Our guest, Patrycja Weiher-Maliszewska, an enthusiast of Kashubian culture and heritage, will tell us about places worth visiting, such as Szymbark, Wieżyca, and maybe in Wdzydze Kiszewskie. We will also talk about aspects of Kashubian culture, Kashubian language and traditions that have survived to this day. Hello.
Patrycja Weiher-Maliszewska: Welcome. Good morning.
AK: Let’s start with a few words about this picturesque region of Kashubia. What distinguishes Kashubia from other regions of Polish?
P.W.M: Kashubia is, above all, one of the most beautiful and original corners of Polish. This unique region impresses with its unique culture and nature. Kashubians, interestingly, have their own language, their own flag, coat of arms, anthem and even the capital. Although as many as seven cities in Kashubia aspire to the title of the capital: Kościerzyna, Kartuzy, Lębork, Puck, Bytów, Gdańsk and Wejherowo. Kashubia is called the heart of Pomerania, because geographically it is located in the very center of the Pomeranian Voivodeship. They stretch from coastal dunes and cliffs to picturesque lakes and hills of the so-called Kashubian Switzerland. They are also called the heart of Pomerania symbolically – it is here that the local community has been cultivating traditions for generations, making this region extremely unique.
AK: From what you say, Kashubia is a very interesting region. Could you point out why it is worth visiting Kashubia? What is their biggest tourist magnet?
P.W.M: Kashubia offers a harmonious combination of beautiful nature, rich culture and hospitality of its inhabitants. It is a place where every tourist will find something for themselves, regardless of the season. Spring is an opportunity to admire the awakening nature, watch birds, go on bicycle trips and visit charming towns. In summer, we can relax by the lakes, practice water sports and enjoy a wide range of cultural and entertainment events. Autumn is the time of mushroom picking in Kashubia. Photography enthusiasts will also find inspiration here – the hilly areas covered in golden leaves are the perfect setting for beautiful photos. Winter is a time of sleigh rides, bonfires and idyllic relaxation in agritourism and guesthouses. The biggest magnet of Kashubia, however, remains its rich folk tradition.
AK: So there is a lot to choose from and it is definitely worth going to this region. Kashubia is also a region extremely rich in traditions. What folk traditions are still alive in Kashubia?
P.W.M: To this day, the tradition of Kashubian storytelling has survived from generation to generation in Kashubia. I mean legends, tales and tales. There are many such stories, often concerning specific towns or characteristic points on the map of the region. One of the most famous is the legend of the Stols, or Kashubian giants, who, according to legends, created the landscape of Kashubia. It is also worth mentioning old games and plays, such as the card game “Baśka” or “Buczka”. During Christmas, the tradition of caroling is extremely popular – in Kashubia, carollers are called “stars” and “whistles”. These are carol groups that visit the household members in Kashubia, play, sing, but there are also such religious customs, such as the dance of feretrons, otherwise known as the adoration of images, or pilgrimages with over three years of tradition.
There is also no shortage of traditional crafts and handicrafts. One of the most valuable and recognizable elements of Kashubian culture is Kashubian embroidery, which is currently experiencing its renaissance. More and more people, both women and men, especially young girls, are learning to embroider. Kashubian embroidery can be admired on napkins, clothing or tablecloths. Some of these works are so beautiful that you can say that they are real works of art painted with a needle. Kashubian embroidery is unique in that there are several schools of Kashubian embroidery and all of them are extremely beautiful. Personally, I like the Żukowski embroidery the most. It is characterized by the fact that it is dominated by seven colors. Seven basic colors, and each of them has its own symbolism. For example, yellow means golden cereals in the fields, which of course are not lacking in Kashubia. There is also Wdzydze embroidery, coming from the village of Wdzydze, in which you can see about twenty colors. It is also a very characteristic Kashubian embroidery, distinguished by the richness of colors and patterns.
What’s more, snuff and horn products are very popular traditions in Kashubia. “Let’s take some snuff” – this sentence will surely be heard by every tourist who comes to Kashubia. Of course, it’s about snuff. Kashubians often make it by hand, according to their own recipes, passed down from generation to generation. Equally popular are snuffboxes, i.e. special containers for storing snuff, which are made from cow horn. They are often made in home workshops and are handmade by Kashubian craftsmen.
AK: And what is snuff made of?
P.W.M: Snuff consists of tobacco leaves, of course, but various ingredients are added to it. These can be, for example, mint, cherry leaves or other fruits. However, each Kashubian has its own recipe, which is often a secret passed down from generation to generation. There are also snuffs flavored with amber or plum flavor. In regional shops you can easily stock up on traditional Kashubian snuff.
AK: From what you say, Kashubia is indeed rich in various traditions. Are there specific places or times of the year when they can be best observed? Are there any events that cultivate these customs?
P.W.M: Yes, there are many ethnographic events organized in Kashubia, during which you can see how Kashubians used to live. The Museum – Kashubian Ethnographic Park named after Teodora and Izydor Gulgowski organizes events such as the Wdzydze Fair, Pentecost or Cutting the Kania – an old Kashubian ritual every year. An interesting event is also “With a hoe for tubers”, presenting old farm work. The Museum of the Slovincian Village, located in northern Kashubia, organizes an event called the Black Wedding. Contrary to the name, it does not refer to a wedding, but to the old tradition of digging peat. It is worth going to such events to see what the life of Kashubians looked like in the past, but also how the modern culture of this region is shaped. I especially recommend the beginning of July, because this is when Kashubian culture is most celebrated during the World Kashubian Reunion. During this time, you can hear traditional Kashubian music, which is distinguished by its unique sound and instruments not found in other parts of Polish, such as bazuna, burczybas or devil’s violin, which are often handmade by Kashubian craftsmen. Interestingly, in Kościerzyna, which can be called the heart of Kashubia, there is the only Accordion Museum in Poland, where you can see almost 180 exhibits from all over the world. The accordion is an instrument strongly associated with Kashubian culture and has played an important role in regional music for generations.
AK: And if someone would like to take part in such a congress, where can they find information on this subject?
P.W.M: I think it’s best to look for information on websites. It is also worth calling local tourist information, community centers or checking travel blogs, where this type of news often appears. In addition to the World Kashubian Reunion, other events characteristic of Kashubian culture are also organized in the region. I mean, for example, Truskawkobrane, a festival of the Kashubian malëna strawberry, which takes place every year in Złota Góra. It is also worth mentioning the Snuff Championships in Chmielno, the Chmielno Feast, the Pomeranian Herb Festival, as well as events such as Wkoło Ryby or the Tournament of Folk Storytellers from Kashubia and Kociewie. An interesting event is also the International Sculpture Open-Air “Passions hidden in wood”, organized in the Ustka commune.
AK: As you mentioned at the beginning, Kashubians have their own language. Kashubian is the only regional language in Poland and is taught in schools in Kashubia. Is it popular and how many people use it?
P.W.M: Yes, the Kashubian language is popular. The inhabitants of Kashubia use their own, separate language. Since 2005, the Kashubian language has had the status of a regional language. It is significantly different from the Polish language – it contains characters that cannot be found in the Polish alphabet, and also has different grammatical rules, accent and specific vocabulary. Its history is extremely rich. One of the most characteristic elements of Kashubian culture is the Kashubian folk melody, known as Kashubian notes. Every tourist visiting Kashubia can not only hear the Kashubian language, but also see it in spelling. Moving along the picturesque Kashubian roads, you can notice bilingual boards with the names of places. Such markings are located before the entrance to each town. Bilingual boards are also placed on administrative buildings, for example in Stężyca or Kartuzy. The Kashubian language can be taken at the Matura exam, and regional programs and magazines in Kashubian are published in the region. Interestingly, the inhabitants of Kashubia can even get an ID card in the Kashubian language. The last national census showed that about 400,000 people declared knowledge of the Kashubian language, of which about 100,000 recognized it as their mother tongue.
AK: Oh, that’s quite a lot! I also found information that the Kashubian language can even be studied as part of the ethnophilology of the Kashubian language.
P.W.M: It’s true, the Kashubian language can be studied and even doctoral dissertations can be written on its literature and history.
AK: Judging by the interest in taking the Kashubian language at the final exam, last year it was, if I’m not mistaken, more than 20 people. It seems that young people are eager to learn this language. Where does this popularity come from and why is the Kashubian language so important for the identity of the region?
P.W.M: As I have already mentioned, the Kashubian language has a rich history. There are many houses in Kashubia where Kashubian has been spoken for generations – both grandmothers, great-grandmothers and subsequent generations have cultivated this language. I myself come from a family where Kashubian was spoken. Maybe today it is not fully “pure” Kashubian, but Kashubian words and phrases still appear in our everyday speech. Kashubian is also available in schools – although learning it is optional, many students are eager to sign up for it. We can see that it is arousing more and more interest, and young people are increasingly returning to their roots and want to cultivate what has been alive in their homes for generations.
AK: Are there regional differences in the Kashubian language? That is, do Kashubians from one region speak differently than Kashubians from another region? Can they communicate freely with each other, or are these differences so large that they can make it difficult to understand each other?
P.W.M: Kashubians communicate with each other without any problems, but in fact the Kashubian language differs slightly in different parts of the region. For example, in the northern part of Kashubia, on the so-called Norda, the language is spoken a little differently than in central or southern Kashubia. There are differences in pronunciation, accent and in some words used in a given area, but they are not so large that they prevent communication.
AK: Could you present a sample of the Kashubian language, which will show what are the biggest differences between Kashubian and Polish?
P.W.M: Maybe a sentence in Kashubian to present what this language sounds like. For example: It ‘s very nice to speak Kashubian.
AK: Thank you very much for this sample of the Kashubian language. And now I would like to ask you about places worth visiting in Kashubia. Which locations on the map of Kashubia are a must-see for tourists?
P.W.M: Kashubia is a wonderful region, full of attractions. There are really a lot of them, both in small towns and in larger cities, where you can find many interesting places to visit. For example, it is worth seeing regional museums, such as the Kashubian Museum in Kartuzy, the Museum of the Kościerzyna Land in Kościerzyna, the Museum in Puck or the Museum of Kashubian Literature and Music in Wejherowo. Near Słupsk there is the Checkered Land, and for lovers of patriotic history, an interesting place is the Museum of the National Anthem in Będomin. In Kashubia, you can also visit castles, for example the castle in Bytów, where the West Pomeranian Museum is located, as well as the castles in Lębork and Słupsk.
There are also tourist attractions for the whole family. In Kościerzyna, it is worth visiting the Railway Museum, where, in addition to admiring the locomotives, you can take a ride on a trolley or the Lilliputian railway. In the region there is also the Kashubian Miniature Park, where you can see miniatures of Kashubian monuments and fairy tale characters. Children will surely love the Upside Down House in Szymbark, and in the Center for Education and Promotion of the Region in Szymbark you can see the largest piano in the world and take advantage of interactive exhibitions.
AK: Indeed, when I think of Kashubia, Szymbark immediately comes to mind as one of the most famous tourist destinations in this region, offering many attractions. But on the other hand, my first association is also the Kashubian Ethnographic Park in Wdzydze. I must admit that I have a great sentiment for this place and I really like coming back there. Could you tell us in a few words what characterizes this museum?
P.W.M: The museum in Wdzydze is extremely characteristic, because you can get to know both the contemporary culture of Kashubia and its old face, especially the architecture from the 19th century, coming from Kashubia and Kociewie. On the premises of the museum, you can see wooden cottages, i.e. cheches, as well as a windmill. Various events are regularly organized there, which allow you to feel the real atmosphere of Kashubia. You can also see old, so-called dying professions, such as glass painting or basketry. All this makes the Museum in Wdzydze a unique place, combining tradition with contemporary culture. The village of Wdzydze itself is also extraordinary. There is an observation tower from which you can admire the beautiful landscape of Kashubia. Coming back to Szymbark for a moment – nearby is Wieżyca, the highest peak in the north of Polish, measuring over 328 meters above sea level. At the top, there is an observation tower, from which there is a picturesque view of the Kashubian hills and lakes. Climbing it is a great adventure, and the panorama that stretches from it will surely delight every tourist. Observation towers are definitely one of the most interesting attractions in Kashubia, allowing you to fully appreciate the beauty of this region.
AK: Thank you very much for this information about the most important tourist attractions of the region. And are there any smaller towns or villages in Kashubia that are worth visiting?
P.W.M: Of course, I think that every town in Kashubia has something interesting that is worth seeing. I especially recommend going to Juszki in the Kościerzyna district. It is a charming town where you can admire architecture from the nineteenth century. It is also worth visiting the Odra and Węsiory rivers – places known for their mysterious stone circles, which, according to various theories, may have cult or astronomical significance. These stone circles have a certain magic and mystery to them, which makes them extremely interesting for tourists and history buffs. That is why these places are especially worth visiting, especially if someone is looking for places with a unique atmosphere.
AK: More and more tourists focus on active recreation, and Kashubia, thanks to its diversity, has a lot to offer, especially when it comes to spending time actively. Which Kashubian lakes are the most noteworthy and what is the offer of water sports in Kashubia?
P.W.M: Let me start by saying that we have over 700 lakes in Kashubia, so there is really a lot to choose from. One of the most popular places is Chmielno, which is often called the “Kashubian Saint-Tropez”. There are beaches and water equipment rentals. It is also worth visiting Lake Rzuno in Dziemiany, where you can enjoy outdoor recreation. Another interesting place is Stężyca, located on the Raduńskie Lakes. There is a promenade that is worth taking a walk while admiring the view of the lake. Beautiful landscapes are also offered by the lake in Ostrzyce. The most famous complex of lakes, however, is the Cross of the Wdzydze Lakes in Wdzydze, which is sometimes called the “Kashubian sea”. Where does this name come from? These are four large lakes connected to each other, forming a cross. This place is ideal for active recreation, both for lovers of water sports and those who appreciate peaceful communion with nature. Tourists from all over Polish eagerly visit Kashubia due to the extremely varied landscape – from sandy beaches surrounding the lakes, through hilly areas, to calm rivers that are ideal for canoeing. There are also rivers in Kashubia, among which it is worth mentioning the Brda, Radunia and Łupawa. Some of their sections are demanding and intended for experienced kayakers, but we will also find slower-flowing, meandering rivers, ideal for those who are just starting their adventure with kayaking. In addition to canoeing, which I consider to be one of the best ways to admire the unspoiled Kashubian nature, you can also go sailing, water skiing, windsurfing, pedal boats or fishing.
AK: And what about walkers and cyclists? Will they also find something for themselves here?
P.W.M: Absolutely! Kashubia offers plenty of hiking and biking trails. One of the most popular is the Kashubian Route, which is about 165 kilometers long and consists of four marked trails. This route is well equipped with infrastructure – there are footbridges over lakes and streams, as well as numerous resting points. The Kashubian Route runs through the Chojnice district, but in addition to it, it is also worth using trails in national parks, such as the Słowiński National Park and the Tuchola Forest National Park. In addition, there are four landscape parks in Kashubia: the Słupia Valley Landscape Park, the Wdzydzki Landscape Park, the Kashubian Landscape Park and the Zaborski Landscape Park. Each of them offers well-marked hiking and biking trails, leading through picturesque forests, lakes and hilly areas. It is also worth visiting the nature reserves, where you can admire the unique flora and fauna of the region.
AK: From what I hear, there is a lot to see and do here in summer, autumn and spring. And what do the attractions look like in winter? Do tourists have any activities at their disposal during this period?
P.W.M: Winter is the time when we can use snowboarding, ski lifts, sleigh rides, and even downhill skiing on snow pontoons. Such attractions are offered, among others, by the town of Wieżyca, which is the winter capital of Kashubia. As you can see, you can’t get bored here in winter either!
AK: After such an active holiday, we will certainly get hungry. What dishes of Kashubian cuisine are obligatory to try? I have to say that when I think of Kashubian cuisine, the first thing that comes to my mind is okrasa – a bread spread that can supposedly stay in the fridge for a very long time. It doesn’t work for me, because it disappears within a few days! And when it comes to something sweet, Kashubian are a must-have during holidays in Kashubia. What other dishes are worth trying? If you could recommend something to our tourists, I’d love to hear from you!
P.W.M: Dishes in Kashubia are prepared according to recipes passed down from generation to generation. They can be found more and more often in restaurants serving traditional, regional dishes. It also happens that rural housewives’ clubs combine traditional recipes with inspirations from international cuisine, creating unique flavors. And what is worth trying in Kashubia? First of all, stew, or delicacies – this is one of the most characteristic dishes of Kashubia, which is an inseparable element of every special event. It is a boiled chicken with rice, served with a white sauce. It is also worth trying the brzadowa soup, prepared on the basis of dried fruit and mushrooms. For brave tourists, I recommend czernina, although I will not reveal what exactly it is made of – let it remain a surprise! Another traditional dish is zylc, or meat jelly, and among the sweet delicacies, honey-based desserts reign supreme. Kashubia is also famous for beekeeping and Kashubian strawberry, which according to many is the best in the world. We cannot forget about fish, which is served in various forms in Kashubia. Near the sea, saltwater fish dominate, while in the lake regions, freshwater fish are served – all of them are extremely tasty and fresh. Served in every form and all very tasty.
AK: Since we have already done some sightseeing, maybe it is worth pointing out a few practical tips for tourists that are worth knowing before coming to Kashubia. For example – the best months to visit. You mentioned that Kashubia is worth visiting at any time of the year, but maybe there is something we haven’t said yet and that is worth considering before you arrive?
P.W.M: Kashubia is attractive at any time of the year, and sightseeing can be combined with a culinary experience. It is worth mentioning that Kashubian cuisine is simple, quick to prepare, and at the same time extremely tasty. It is said that a good Kashubian farmer or housewife can feed a family with what they harvest from the field, garden or grow on their own farm. That is why it is worth coming to Kashubia, trying the local dishes and getting to know their unique taste. In addition to culinary experiences, it is also worth buying souvenirs related to Kashubia. I especially recommend porcelain from Łubiana – in this town you can not only buy beautiful Kashubian patterns on porcelain, but also visit the factory. It is also worth visiting Chmielno, where you can admire hand-painted clay vessels, made in the workshop of the Necel family, which has been cultivating this tradition for generations. Such unique, handmade souvenirs are the perfect thing to take with you from Kashubia. What more can I add? I am sure that Kashubia will charm everyone. Dear listeners, feel the magic of Kashubia, admire it and… to the bridging in Kashubia!
AK: That’s all for today. As you have heard, Kashubia is an extremely interesting region where everyone will find something for themselves. Thank you very much for today’s conversation with Ms. Patrycja Weiher-Maliszewska, who told us so beautifully about this unique place. And you, dear listeners, I invite you to the next episode of AmberPodcast, the main theme of which will be Gdańsk. Thank you for the interview!
P.W.M: Thank you, see you soon!