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AmberPodcast Episode #13 Gdańsk part 2 – the city of history and museums

What is worth seeing in Gdańsk off the beaten track? What places, museums and events allow you to feel the atmosphere of this extraordinary city even better? In the thirteenth episode of AmberPodcast, we continue our walk around Gdańsk with guide Izabella Daszkiewicz. We visit the European Solidarity Centre, the Museum of the Second World War, Westerplatte, and we also visit the Amber Museum and the Wisłoujście Fortress. We also suggest where to go with children, which districts are worth visiting outside the city center, where to relax by the water and what events or local flavors are worth getting to know to feel the atmosphere of the city. Turn on the AmberPodcast and discover Gdańsk anew!

Anna Kordecka: Welcome to the next part of the AmberPodcast, devoted to the tourist attractions of the Pomeranian Voivodeship. The partner of this year’s series is the Pomeranian Regional Tourist Organization. In the previous episode, we walked through the historic streets of the Main Town, discovering its architectural gems. Today we will visit Gdańsk again, but this time we will focus on places that allow you to dive deeper into its history and culture. Our guide, Izabella Daszkiewicz, will tell you about museums, events organized in the region and where to relax and what to try to feel the real atmosphere of Gdańsk. Hello. Looking at Gdańsk from above, we see a bridge that leads to another symbol of Gdańsk, Westerplatte. What educational attractions await tourists who decide to visit this place?

Izabella Daszkiewicz: An interesting fact is that you can get to Westerplatte by boat. A cruise on the Motława River takes about 40 minutes and along the way you can see how the modern port works – especially transshipments, which take place during the week. You can also get to the place by public transport or by car – it is a short distance from the center. We start our tour at the former railway gate, where there are now educational boards. Already in May 2025, the new Museum of Westerplatte and the War of 1939 will be opened – it will be another valuable attraction on the map of Gdańsk. Currently, in the summer season, you can visit guardhouse No. 1, walk towards the Cemetery of the Defenders of Westerplatte, which today has gained the character of a mausoleum, and see the remains of the former barracks. The walk leads to the Monument to the Defenders of the Coast, built on an artificial hill, visible from the port canal. From May to October, the opening of the “Power Plant” facility is also planned, which will be available to visitors. A visit to Westerplatte takes at least two hours – it is worth planning it in advance.

AK: As you can see, this is another place that you simply have to visit while in Gdańsk. The Museum of Westerplatte and the War of 1939 is not the only institution related to the subject of World War II, is it?

ID: Yes, that’s right. In Gdańsk, we have three facilities that refer to the period of World War II. One of the most important symbols, next to Westerplatte, is the Polish Post Office No. 1. Currently, it is being renovated, but there is also a monument to the defenders of the Polish Post. It is a place located very close to the Museum of the Second World War. The museum itself makes a great impression from the outside. The body visible above the ground is a symbol of the future. The entrance leads through the present zone, while the main part of the exhibition is 14 meters underground – this is our past. If you are planning a visit, it is worth booking at least two hours. The exhibition is divided into three main parts: “Road to War”, “The Horror of War” and “The Long Shadow of War”, which include a total of 18 thematic sections. It is a museum that has a strong emotional effect. It shows not only everyday life during the war, but also heroes, victims and oppressors. It is a very moving story. Important information – the museum is intended for people over 14 years of age. Only selected parts are available for younger children, m.in. a school room from the 1920s, a Warsaw apartment shown on the day of the outbreak of the war and its transformation two years later and after the end of the war. Other exposures can be too difficult and emotionally taxing. In the museum, we will see, m.in, how totalitarian systems were born – communism, fascism, Nazism, Japanese imperialism – and how World War II broke out. The exhibition also includes weapons from that period, two tanks, a copy of a Junkers plane, uniforms, camp space, the history of the siege of Leningrad, everyday life in the shelters of occupied Europe. The wagon in which prisoners were transported makes a great impression. There is a section devoted to Katyn, concentration and extermination camps. Then we move on to the part devoted to resistance – the Polish Underground State, various uprisings in Poland and Europe. We can see, m.in the Enigma cipher machine, as well as exhibitions on the end of the war, peace conferences and settling accounts with war criminals. It is a museum that really makes you reflect and evokes strong emotions.

AK: I definitely recommend it – it’s really worth taking the time and visiting this museum, because it gives a lot to think about. In case of bad weather – whether it’s cold or hot weather – visiting museums is a great way to get to know the city. Especially since Gdańsk offers a very rich and diverse museum offer. In addition to the aforementioned Museum of the Second World War and the Museum of Westerplatte and the War of 1939, which is currently under construction, we also have the European Solidarity Centre and the Amber Museum. If we could briefly tell our listeners why it is worth visiting these – and other – institutions, and how much time is worth spending on visiting them?

ID: The European Solidarity Centre is located right next to the Solidarity Square, at the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of December 1970. This place has been inscribed on the list of monuments of history, so it is really worth visiting. From the outside, the building has a raw, industrial character – but inside it hides a modern museum. There are, m.in, an auditorium where conferences and film screenings are held, an archive, a large reading room and a space called the “winter part”, where events are also organized. Inside, there are six main exhibition rooms – this is the so-called ticketed part. The remaining space of the ECS is open to the public. From the technical point of view, it is worth mentioning that there is an underground car park under the body of the building. The permanent exhibition takes us on a journey to the post-war times – starting from the moment when the so-called Iron Curtain was created in Europe. If you visit the museum with children, you can show them what the rooms in blocks of flats from that period looked like, what everyday life and propaganda looked like. We will also see the events of December 1970 on the coast, the birth of the opposition, the activities of such organizations as the Workers’ Defense Committee, the Movement for the Defense of Human and Citizen Rights or the Young Polish Movement. There is also a fragment devoted to the role of the Catholic Church, and among the exhibits we will see, m.in, a copy of the Popemobile. One of the most important points of the exhibition are the original plaques with the 21 postulates of August 1980 – this is the “Mona Lisa” of this exhibition. Next to it there is an electric wheelchair and a large map of the Gdańsk Shipyard area, which at its peak employed as many as 17 thousand people. Subsequent rooms lead us through the events of August 1980, the signing of agreements and the birth of Solidarity. The bright hall symbolizes hope – the establishment of an independent trade union. On the next floor, the story of martial law, introduced on December 13, 1981, begins. We see TV sets with General Jaruzelski’s announcement, the gate of shipyard number 2 – destroyed during pacification – and spaces that recreate temporary detention centers and everyday life of martial law. There is also a fragment devoted to the Nobel Peace Prize awarded to Lech Walesa and humanitarian aid that flowed to Polish from all over the world. On further boards we see images of m.in. Mikhail Gorbachev, as well as information about perestroika, reforms, the Round Table and the first free elections on June 4, 1989. In one of the last rooms, there is an installation symbolizing the domino effect – it shows how the changes initiated in Poland spilled over into other countries of the Eastern Bloc: Hungary, East Germany, and then beyond. Finally, we go down to the John Paul II Hall – a place of reflection, where you can stop for a moment and see the images of spiritual leaders of peaceful revolutions. For the youngest, up to 12 years of age, there is a Play Department – an interactive space. And if you want to look at the city from above, it is worth taking the elevator to the sixth floor – the terrace offers a view of the shipyard area.

AK: As you can hear, this is another point that you simply have to mark on the map of Gdańsk while being in this beautiful city. Are there any other museums worth visiting?

ID: Of course! If we still have 25 hours of the day in Gdańsk, it is worth walking a few steps from the European Solidarity Centre to the Amber Museum, which is currently located in the Old Mill in the Old Town – opposite the entrance to St. Catherine’s Church. Amber, our Gold of the North, is a fossilized resin that is over 40 million years old. Gdańsk, as the world capital of amber, can boast of many institutions related to it – but let’s focus on the main one. On the ground floor, we will see the world’s largest lump of amber – it weighs over 60 kg! Although it is not Baltic amber, it is very impressive. After scanning the ticket, we enter the next levels, where we will see, m.in, amber in nature – i.e. inclusions in which insects, arachnids, plant fragments and even feathers are immersed. We will learn about the different colors of amber: from white, through milky, to red and honey shades. We will also see what amber looked like when it flowed from trees in the form of icicles and resin, as well as what forms it took. We will find out how Baltic amber differs (containing about 8% succinic acid) from other fossil resins from different parts of the world – all of them must be over a million years old to deserve the name amber. In the part of the exhibition devoted to the extraction and collection of amber, you can learn that it can still be found on the beach – especially after a storm. You have to be early in the morning, and the best places are from the Bay of Gdańsk to Sobieszewo Island. Amber has also been used in medicine – formerly used as an amulet, later appreciated for its health properties. The museum even has an amber pharmacy where a few surprises await. But it’s best to find out for yourself. On the second floor, amber products are already presented. The first amber guild was established in Gdańsk – as early as the 15th–16th centuries, luxury items were produced here for wealthy patricians, but also for export. Few people know that the amber room was created by Gdańsk craftsmen. At the exhibition we will see, m.in, caskets, altars, chess pieces and pawns in various shades of amber, as well as an electric guitar made of amber. There is also furniture, fruit platters, jewelry: rings, necklaces. There will also be one of the most famous symbols – the Amber Nightingale, an award presented during the festival in Sopot.

AK: All this is waiting for you at the Amber Museum – remember this name and be sure to visit this place during your stay in Gdańsk. And what if we travel with children? Are there any museums in Gdansk that are particularly worth visiting with younger travelers?

ID: Of course, there are museums in Gdańsk that are particularly liked by children! One of the examples is a branch of the Archaeological Museum – the Blue Lamb. It is a place where every child can feel like a real archaeologist or explorer. Here you can see what the medieval street of Gdańsk looked like, smell the smells of the time, touch the tools used by old craftsmen and get to know everyday objects produced in Gdańsk. This is knowledge that does not need to be learned from textbooks – children experience it with all their senses. Another attraction is a visit to the deck of the coal and ore carrier Sołdek, moored at Ołowianka Island. The opportunity to take the helm of a large ship that once transported coal from Polish makes a great impression on children. In the summer, the Motława ferry also operates, which can take you to the other side and visit another part of the National Maritime Museum. There, on one of the floors, children can feel like the captain of a ship – they can control the simulator on their own and see what it is like to drive a sea vessel. All three of these museums – the Blue Lamb, Sołdek and the National Maritime Museum – are located in the heart of Gdansk, near the Crane. These are great proposals for families with children.

AK: A lot of attractions are already behind us – you can say that we really did a good job of exploring Gdańsk! Especially the Old and Main Town, we also walked along the Motława River. And are there any other places in Gdansk that are worth visiting, and which are located a little further from the most famous, central attractions?

ID: Yes, there are definitely districts in Gdańsk worth visiting, which are located a little further from the center. Westerplatte is often mentioned, but on the way to this place, it is worth stopping at the Wisłoujście Fortress – it is an early modern fortification, which has recently been reopened to tourists. You can visit it in the summer season and see what such a fortress looks like from the inside. An interesting place is also Nowy Port, the district where the lighthouse is located – also open to visitors in the summer. It is worth climbing up and seeing the panorama of the port area. The next point on the map is the Oliwa district, where you will find the beautiful Oliwa Park and the Oliwa Cathedral. Every day, there are short, about 20-minute presentations of playing the famous organ. In the summer, the International Festival of Organ Music takes place – this year it will be the 49th edition. It is definitely worth listening to this unique music in such an environment. It is also worth going to Wrzeszcz, where there is a renovated Wajdeloty Street, with beautiful tenement houses from the end of the 19th century. On the other hand, on Góra Gradowa there is the Hevelianum Centre – an ideal place for family sightseeing and learning through play. And in Brzeźno there is a Spa House, which also conducts interesting educational activities and is available to visitors. If someone wants to stay closer to the center, I recommend a walk along the Motława River Flow, where you can see the former city fortifications from the water. This route can also be covered by kayak – it’s a completely different perspective of Gdańsk.

AK: Okay, since we already know what to see while in Gdańsk, maybe it’s worth mentioning the events that take place in the city. If we have a week, two, three, or maybe even a whole month at the seaside – what events are worth taking part in?

ID: It is best to come to Gdańsk for the whole year, because many different events take place here throughout the year. The amber fair is approaching, m.in – it is held twice a year under the names Amberif and Ambermart. These events are aimed at both the jewellery and amber industry, as well as anyone who is interested in jewellery and wants to buy something unique – the fair is also available to visitors. Among the events known throughout Poland and Europe, the St. Dominic’s Fair, the oldest fair in this part of Europe – it has been held continuously since the thirteenth century, deserves special attention. It lasts three weeks and takes place in the heart of historic Gdańsk. You can buy unique products here, but the atmosphere and cultural events accompanying the fair attract thousands of tourists. The Shakespeare Festival also takes place at a similar time – with the main stage at the Gdańsk Shakespeare Theatre, but performances also take place in various districts of the city. Another colorful event is the FETA Festival – a street theater festival that gathers many spectators and artists from all over the world. Lovers of classical music will certainly appreciate the International Festival of Organ Music in Oliwa – it takes place in the Oliwa Cathedral, but also in St. Mary’s Basilica. During the holidays, you can also hear carillon concerts, which resound from the towers of Gdańsk churches. The Wisłoujście festival – an electronic music event, organized in the unique space of the historic fortress – is also becoming more and more popular. Gdańsk also hosts the International Mozart Festival “Mozartiada”, as well as the Sounds of the North – a festival of traditional music, held every two years. And don’t forget about sailing events – in August, the Baltic Sail sailing ship rally takes place, which attracts sailing fans from all over Europe. In addition, throughout the year, smaller and larger events take place in various districts of Gdańsk – related, m.in to anniversaries of important historical moments, such as the outbreak of World War II or the signing of the August Agreements. There are really a lot of these events – it is worth following local calendars and city websites to stay up to date.

AK: Thank you very much for this extensive answer. As you can hear, Gdańsk is not only monuments, but also a lot of events that are really worth taking part in. However, our conversation cannot miss one more topic – is there anything worth trying or drinking in Gdańsk? What is particularly characteristic of this city?

ID: When it comes to the flavors characteristic of Gdańsk, it is definitely worth mentioning a few unique drinks – after all, Gdańsk as a port city has been famous for its drinks for centuries, not only non-alcoholic ones. The most famous of them is the Goldwasser liqueur, whose history dates back to the Gdańsk Żuławy, although its main production took place in Gdańsk. It is a forty percent liqueur with the addition of about 20 types of herbs and 22-carat gold flakes. It has a sweetish, slightly aniseed flavor and is usually served chilled. In summer, it can taste delicious – although of course it all depends on taste. Goldwasser is known in many regions of Europe and certainly deserves to be tried at least once. Another beverage that also has its tradition in Pomerania is machandel – juniper vodka, which cannot be confused with anything else. If someone gives you a glass with a toothpick and smoked plum – you can be sure that it is machandel. The way of tasting is also unique: we put the plum in our mouth, pour the drink over it, swallow it and break the toothpick. But beware – whoever does it last puts another turn! In Gdańsk you have to be fast. Finally, something really historic – Jopen beer. Its origins date back to the Middle Ages. Back then, it was a thick, dark beer with a low alcohol content (about 2%) and was widely consumed on a daily basis. Today, thanks to the recreated recipes, Jopen beer is brewed again – it matures for about a year and already has over 10% alcohol. Interestingly, it is sold in 1.5-liter bottles, so it is best to taste them in company.

AK: And does Gdańsk have anything to offer also to those who have already seen a lot – walked through the old streets, visited museums – and now would just like to relax a bit?

ID: Gdańsk is located on the Bay of Gdańsk, so if someone wants to relax after intensive sightseeing, the beach is always a good idea. For sunbathers, districts such as Jelitkowo or Brzeźno will be ideal, where you will find wide beaches and a pier. It is also worth visiting Nowy Port, and even a small beach at Westerplatte. But such a real gem when it comes to leisure is Sobieszewo Island – also belonging to Gdańsk. It is a place not only with a wide, sandy beach, but also with two nature reserves: Ptasi Raj and Mewia Łacha, where you can admire unique species of birds and nature in an almost intact state. For those who prefer active recreation, Gdańsk is a real informal cycling capital. We have well-prepared cycling and walking routes here, especially in the Tri-City Landscape Park. It is an ideal place for contact with nature – both for lovers of two wheels and hiking.

AK: What is the best way to visit Gdańsk? Is it worth discovering the city on your own, with a guide, using an audio guide, or maybe in a traditional way – with a paper guide in hand?

ID: There are really many ways to visit Gdańsk – it all depends on how much time we have and how we like to discover new places. If someone prefers individual sightseeing, you can get a traditional guide – available, m.in others, at tourist information points, e.g. in the Upland Gate, at Długa Street or Długi Targ. For those who prefer a more organized form, I recommend taking advantage of the offer of the so-called Pomeranian Tours – these are one-day trips around Gdańsk on various topics, as well as trips around the entire region. You can also hire a local guide for an individual tour – their contacts are available, for example, on museum websites or in official tourist sources. It is worth adding that a guide who lives in a given place, talks with passion and knows local curiosities, will always bring something more than even the best-written book. These are personal stories, answers to questions, and often anecdotes that you will not find in a traditional guidebook. For those who prefer technology, there are also mobile applications with tourist routes around Gdańsk – information about them can also be obtained at tourist information points.

AK: Does Gdańsk offer something like a tourist card for visitors? One that entitles you to discounts on admission tickets to selected attractions or makes it easier to move around the city?

ID: If you look at the websites of the individual museums, you will find information about the free admission days. Unfortunately, they do not always coincide with the date of the visit. That is why an interesting solution is the Pomeranian Tourist Card, which can be purchased at tourist information points. The card is available in various variants – for example, the Metropolis package, covering the Tri-City, and the Metropolis Plus package, which extends the coverage to the entire region. Thanks to it, you can get discounts not only on tickets to tourist attractions, but also to selected restaurants and other places in the region.

AK: That’s all for today. Of course, we have not been able to tell you about all the attractions that Gdańsk offers – so it will be best if you visit this city in person and check for yourself what else is worth marking on your tourist map. Thank you very much for today’s conversation with Izabella Daszkiewicz, who showed us around Gdańsk and told us so vividly about its streets, monuments and less obvious places that are worth seeing. Thank you very much!

ID: Thank you too. And I cordially invite you to Gdańsk – at any time of the year. There is a reason why we did not reveal everything today… We leave something for you to discover, so that everyone can feel the magic of this place in their own way.

AK: And because the AmberPodcast series about Pomerania’s tourist attractions is created in cooperation with the Pomeranian Regional Tourist Organisation, in the next episode we will move to Żuławy and the Vistula Spit. I cordially invite you – and see you soon!

km 57+300 to km 65+150 between the Kopytkowo – Warlubie junctions

Kopytkowo junction closed in the direction of Gdańsk. Traffic takes place in two lanes in the direction of Łódź and one lane in the direction of Gdańsk.

 

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